Warping Shed Doors Are A Pain
Problems with shed doors are the number 1 complaint from shed owners.
Since they are the only mechanical part of the shed and used a lot, problems are noticed immediately.
The type of doors that cause most of the problems are from companies that ship kits either direct to the consumer or through your local home improvement store.
If the doors to your shed are framed with 1 inch thick boards, you will have a problem guaranteed. Many companies use a composite material for trim which is also the frame of the door.
A vertical 2″ x 4″ may be used on one side to stiffen the door but in reality, it doesn’t do much good because the door has 4 total sides, 2 vertical and 2 horizontal sides.
If the door frame is the trim, it’s mounted on the outside of the door and you have to beef up the fasteners as they are stapled to the door siding from the front and will loosen up over time.
Use a small fastener like a deck screw. Screw in the trim from the back of the door. This will hold the trim better and help the door stay straight. The length of the screw should be short enough so it doesn’t break through the front of the trim.
Using a material similar to the siding of the door, cut small blocks approximately 2 inches square and screw those into the backs of the doors on each corner. This will help keep the corners of the doors firm. They can’t be on the edge as they’ll interfere with closing but put as close to the edge as possible.
If your door uses a vertical 2″ x 4″ on one side, add another one or at least a 2″ x 2″ to the other side making sure it doesn’t interfere with closing the door. This will add weight but with a good hinge, either a heavy duty strap or a piano hinge, the extra weight shouldn’t be a problem.
You can also add horizontal 2″ x 4″‘s or 2″ x 2″‘s at the top, middle and bottom of the inside of your doors.
Adding the vertical and horizontal pieces will just about make your doors warp proof if you follow the rest of the recommendations.
Once you have beefed up the frame of your doors, you must caulk the outside trim pieces and paint the doors both inside and outside.
Caulk only the outside top seams of every part of the doors. By leaving the bottoms UN-caulked, you’ll allow any water that does get in a way out. If you caulked the bottom seams, water that entered would be trapped and rot that part of the door from behind the trim piece.
Once you have the outside caulked, paint the outside and inside of your doors paying particular attention to the bottom edges of the doors. Look at any door that’s rotten and falling apart and you’ll see the damage is at the bottom.
A problem with a shed that causes the doors to warp or have difficulty closing and opening is from being UN-level. When your shed settles, if must be re-leveled or you’ll weaken the doors every time you have to force them closed or force them to open.
Using a level, check the front, sides and back of your shed floor. Use a car jack or fulcrum to lift your shed and use shims to level it. A great shim to use are old shingles. Cut shingles into 6″ x 6″ squares and use as many as you need.
If your shed doors are too far gone to repair, buy a set of shed door plans and make them yourself.
If making a set of doors is beyond your capabilities, then order a new set of doors.
If you have any questions, leave them in the comment area and I’ll answer them as soon as I can!